Category Archives: Travel

Inglewood Bird Sanctuary “Flood Tour”

I am the first to roll my eyes at so-called “disaster tourism,” where people visit a place that’s been devastated by a natural disaster, such as New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina, to see and take pictures of the aftermath. Call me an old-fashioned travel rube, but I can’t really get my head around the appeal of going somewhere to ogle carnage. Part of this stance has been influenced by where I live — all summer disaster tourists have been walking or riding their bikes up my sidewalk to gawk at the eroded river bank and our churned up street that almost fell into the Bow River.

But I changed my tune when I found out the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary was offering free guided Flood Tours four times a week into October. Before the flood we visited the Bird Sanctuary as a family a couple times each season. We often spotted deer or chickadees, and sometimes a muskrat or great blue heron. I’ve missed the familiar hiking trails and wanted to see for myself how this Inglewood attraction fared during the flood — not to gawk, but to know.

The trails at the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary remain closed, but you can visit the park on a "Flood Tour."

The trails at the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary remain closed, but you can visit the park on a “Flood Tour.”

Guide Kyle McManas, a member of the education team for the federally-designated wild migratory bird sanctuary, led us from the nature centre (which was unaffected by the flood) on a paved path toward the lagoon. There we stopped and looked at the debris-clogged main bridge while McManas described the impact of the flood on the sanctuary’s infrastructure and animals.

The large lods have been removed, but this bridge is still clogged with detritus.

The large logs have been removed, but this bridge is still clogged with detritus.

At its highest, the river flowed through the sanctuary over top of the bridges (washing one away completely) and all the paths — save the high gravel trail running between the lagoon entry point and Colonel Walker House — at an estimated flow rate of 2,200 cubic metres per second, three times the flow of the 2005 flood that also flooded the lagoon. When the water receded it left a mess — plant debris and layers of silt. Park staff were encouraged to see wildlife return to the area immediately, including deer, beavers, ducks, kingfishers and even porcupines. As McManas explained, though dramatic, floods are a regular (if sporadic) occurrence in a riparian environment.

Avery examines a layer of silt that runs along the edge of the trail, proof the water ran that high.

Avery examines a layer of silt that runs along the edge of the trail, proof the water ran that high.

While it’s what nature does from time to time, it’s still not nice to see how much the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary has to do to rebuild. Though work has already begun on the trails, the planned re-opening isn’t until summer 2014.

This coming weekend, Sept. 28 and 29, you can visit the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary and Colonel Walker House, which will be open between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. both days as part of Doors Open YYC. Interestingly, Colonel Walker House was originally built much closer to the Bow River, but a flood in 1882, and then another one in 1897, destroyed the first two attempts. The current brick house sits much higher, but its basement still flooded in June.

The nature centre is also open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., but closes on Mondays starting in October. Flood tours run Tues., Wed., Thurs. and Sun. at 1:30 p.m. through Oct. 10 and can be booked online.

So, have I become a disaster tourist? Hardly. It was actually a relief to see the bird sanctuary — I was expecting a lot more devastation (I’m sure it looks a lot better now than it did on June 25, the day the workers were allowed back in). Still, they have a lot of work ahead of them and I’m hopeful we’ll be able to resume our regular walks there soon.

A diagram inside the nature centre at the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary illustrates how high the Bow River ran before it crested at midnight on June 21 -- 4.1 metres, up from about 2 metres at 9 a.m. on June 20.

A diagram inside the nature centre at the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary illustrates how high the Bow River ran before it crested at midnight on June 21 — 4.1 metres, up from about 2 metres at 9 a.m. on June 20.

Getaway to Island Lake Lodge

We go to Fernie a lot in the summer and have spent the past several years exploring the many hiking trails in the area. A favourite place to go has been Island Lake, a beautiful mountain lake located up a winding dirt road that travels through Mt. Fernie Provincial Park. We usually just walk around the lake with the kids — or canoe on it — but this summer we had the opportunity to leave the children in Fernie with Grammie and spend a night at Island Lake Lodge to celebrate our anniversary (16 years!). This meant we could graduate beyond the lake trail to the more difficult ascents above timberline.

Taking a rest on Spineback Trail.

Taking a rest on Spineback Trail.

The lodge is best known as a cat-skiing base during the winter, when feet of epic Fernie powder fall on the slopes that surround the lake like an amphitheatre. Come summer the area transforms into a beautiful mountain sanctuary, with old growth cedar forests giving way to sub-alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers and rocky escarpments inhabited by marmots and pikas.

We opted for Spineback Trail, a hike that climbs 530 metres over 3.5 kilometres up a ridge. The payoff? It’s a great workout and there’s a lovely wooden bench at the trail’s terminus that affords an eagle’s eye view of Island Lake and the lodge far below.

Look down, waaaay down: Island Lake and the lodge as seen from the top of Spineback Trail.

Look down, waaaay down: Island Lake and Island Lake Lodge as seen from the top of Spineback Trail near Fernie, B.C..

We boogied back in a short but insistent rain storm and headed straight for the hot tub to help us warm up and rejuvenate our over-tired muscles. Then it was time for a rich dinner of duck, lobster, creme brûlée and lots of wine, served in the main lodge. The mountain air afforded us a sleep in (kid-free, hooray!) and we emerged for a buffet breakfast and a short hike around the lake. There wasn’t a lot of time to luxuriate in our cozy room in Cedar Lodge (complete with balcony and mountain view), but the point of an escape to Island Lake is to get active in a breathtakingly beautiful place. What a great way to spend our anniversary — doing something we love, together, in the mountains. We’ll be back!

A beautiful summer morning at Island Lake.

A beautiful summer morning at Island Lake.

Just call me Miss France-y Pants

I had the good fortune of spending last week in Paris, Reims and Angers, France,  with a group of Canadian travel, cocktail and fashion journalists, courtesy of Cointreau liqueurPiper-Heidseick champagne and their Canadian distributor, Select Wines & Spirits. It was a first-class — and amazing! — experience that I’ll be writing about in some upcoming stories for the Calgary Herald, but I wanted to share some of the highlights here.

1. The sights

The Eiffel Tower is lit up at night and even sparkles for five minutes every hour.

The Eiffel Tower is lit up at night and even sparkles for five minutes every hour.

Wow, Paris! It had been years since I’d visited the City of Lights and I’d forgotten that not only is every boulevard wide and tree-lined, there’s usually a famous monument in any direction you turn your head. We spent a morning touring the city in a vintage convertible Citroen with 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie and drove past the Louvre, L’Arc de Triomphe, Notre-Dame and countless Second Empire-style buildings that line the streets. We even had dinner one night at Monsieur Bleu, right across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower. Awesome!

2. The sleeps

I don’t usually get excited about spending time in my accommodations when travelling — I’d rather be out exploring a new city. But, hello. A chateau? I can totally picture myself as a chatelaine.

It's decided then. I'm becoming a chatelaine.

It’s decided then. I’m becoming a chatelaine.

We stayed at Chateau des Briottieres, an 18th-century chateau in Anjou, nears Angers. I also luxuriated in Paris at Le Royal Monceau, a Raffles hotel, and Hotel Costes, my first hotel with a complimentary condom as part of the in-room amenities. Really.

3. The booze

I have forgotten the name of this yummy number but I remember it as my first gooseberry garnish.

I have forgotten the name of this yummy number but I remember it as my first gooseberry garnish.

Well, it was a cocktail-themed press trip, after all so when in Paris… drink Cointreau. At 11 a.m.? With a gooseberry garnish? Mais oui!

4. The bubbly

Tasting Piper Heidseick at 10 a.m. Vive La France!

Tasting Piper-Heidseick at 10 a.m. Vive La France!

Before France I pooh-poohed champagne as too dry, hangover-inducing and pricey. Clearly, I had never tried really good champagne (or maybe it just tastes good because — pinch me! — you’re in Paris?). I loved the tiny bubbles, creme-brulee taste and length of both Piper-Heidseick and Charles Heidseick champagnes. And I never had a hangover! But, sadly, it’s still pricey.

And to sum in all up, here’s a photo that captures the trip:

The newly-minted chatelaine sips champagne at a vineyard in Champagne.

The newly-minted chatelaine sips champagne in Champagne. Mais oui!