Category Archives: Travel

Catskiing at Island Lake Lodge

How’s this for a powder fantasy — two days of catskiing on virgin slopes at one of B.C.’s premier operations: Island Lake Lodge. This dream became my reality for two days in December on assignment for awesome Canadian travel blog Toque and Canoe. My story will be up on the site soon; in the meantime, here’s a sneak preview of what makes Island Lake special.

The Lodge(s)

The snow cats are warm and comfy too: cushy seats, lots of snacks and lively conversation.

The snow cats are cozy too: cushy seats, lots of snacks and lively conversation.

A cluster of timber-frame lodges greets skiers after an evening snow cat ride up a secluded, winding road. The accommodations are anything but rustic —  well-appointed rooms, comfortable beds and gourmet Rocky Mountain cuisine help skiers catch their zzz’s and fuel up for days of shredding the gnar (sorry). The setting is a little slice of Canadiana.

The Views

Spectacular, isn't it? It's like being on top of the world.

Gorgeous, isn’t it? The vistas make you feel like you’re on top of the world.

The Lizard Range of the Canadian Rocky Mountains in Fernie, B.C. is spectacular anyway, but Island Lake Lodge boasts a trifecta of limestone peaks that stand out. The Three Bears, pictured above, lord over the range and collect all the white stuff that blows in from the west.

The Pow

Fresh pow: bring it!

Fresh pow! Bring it!!

There’s a reason we’re called powder junkies — ski fresh tracks on a virgin slope like this one and you’ll be hooked too. Bonus: you don’t have to be an expert skier. Island Lake Lodge boasts a range of terrain — from gentler, gladed slopes to open runs with steep pitches — and lots of it: there are a staggering 7,000 acres shared between a maximum of 36 guests. The one thing all the runs have in common is powder.

The Après-ski 

Island Lake Lodge apres-ski

Guided beer drinking is part of the package. And a snow flurry every afternoon. Kidding!

The guides at Island Lake Lodge are fantastic: professional, helpful and attuned to skiers’ needs. For example, they snowmobiled a crate of cold beer up to us so it was waiting at the bottom of our final run on Day 1. Nice!

And to make sure you get a good night’s sleep, there’s a custom skot-ski inside Bear Lodge. The days soon take on an enticing pattern: eat, ski, beer, hot tub, eat, shot ski, sleep. The good news? Being powder junkies, we’ll be back!

Nothing says Canadian pares-ski quite like a Burt Reynolds shot ski!

Nothing says Canadian apres-ski quite like a Burt Reynolds shot ski.

Down and out in Disneyland

Disneyland promotes itself as the “Happiest Place on Earth” and under normal circumstances — my belly stuffed full of churros after riding Space Mountain, or breezing through no line-up at the Pirates of the Caribbean ride — I’d have to agree. It’s a park built on the idea of family togetherness through shared experiences, whether marvelling at different cultures inside It’s a Small World (the characters all dressed up for Christmas this time of year), or being wowed by the nightly parade (complete with Santa and his elves).

One of many Disney characters who wandered over during breakfast at Goofy's Kitchen.

Alice in Wonderland at Goofy’s Kitchen.

But bringing a child with autism to Disneyland is a game-changer. Suddenly, the crowds, lights and chaotic rides that make Disneyland well, Disneyland, can become obstacles to enjoyment. But, I reckoned, with fast passes, gluten-free options at all Disney eateries, and the resort’s commitment to accommodating people with disabilities, we’d have a relatively smooth trip. Right?

I pitched the idea of “Inclusive Disney” to up! magazine (watch for my story in the spring) and soon the whole family was booked for the Disneyland World of Colour press event. We’d get to see Disneyland all decked out for the holidays and take in the World of Color — Winter Dreams water spectacular at Disney California Adventure Park. What we didn’t count on was Bennett contracting a nasty stomach bug en route to LAX.

Here’s how it all went down (or, more accurately, came back up) in Disneyland:

1 p.m. Nov. 13, Air Canada flight 860 from Calgary to Los Angeles, Row 26. Bennett says his tummy hurts, makes a retching motion, then vomits into the airplane barf bag (good news: they actually work). Thinking it’s a one-puke kind of airplane ride, I am unprepared for round two and must “catch” it in my hands (bad news: this is not an effective containment method). “Clean-up in aisle 26,” Blake tells the perky flight attendant as we disembark the aircraft.

6:30 p.m. Nov. 13, Disneyland. Having rallied from his earlier tummy upset, and after some French fries and applesauce at the Rainforest Cafe, Bennett is keen to board the monorail. During the ride into the park he spies the Matterhorn mountain’s iconic peak. “Can we go up the mountain?” he innocently asks. “Sure,” I say, forgetting completely how freakin’ fast and frightening the Matterhorn Bobsleds are. On we go, Bennett in front of me, clutching my hand as we climb up a hill in darkness… only to scream down past a RED-EYED YETI that jumps toward our sled. I’m not sure when Bennett starts whimpering, but by the time we get off this is all he has to say: “And I was scared up there.” Nothing quite like initiating our autistic son to Disneyland by making him go on the scariest ride at the park. #ParentingFail

9 a.m. Nov. 14, Breakfast at Goofy’s Kitchen, Disneyland Hotel. Bennett is not at all hungry for his Mickey Mouse-shaped gluten-free pancakes, but still poses for a picture with Pluto. Thirty minutes later he is in melt-down mode and Blake takes him back to the four-walled hotel prison room.

Forget princesses, says Avery. Pluto is where it's at!

Forget princesses, says Avery. Pluto is where it’s at!

12:30 p.m., Nov. 14, Jingle Cruise, Disneyland. Blake hauls a fussy Bennett into the park and we meet up at the “Jingle Cruise,” a re-imagined holiday version of the old-school classic Jungle Cruise. Bennett is inconsolable so I take him back to the hotel, while Blake* escorts Avery to see Elsa and Anna from Frozen. (*Note: Blake participated in Movember, so he looks like a porn star pervy 80s TV cop in our Disneyland photos.) We are making memories!

Frozen Elsa and Anna are hot for my hubby, natch.

It’s getting hot in here, with Frozen Elsa and Anna and my moustachioed hubby.

6 – 8 p.m., Nov. 14, A Christmas Fantasy Parade and World of Colour Winter Dreams. The kids love the parade and we all enjoy using Bennett’s Disability Access Service Card, which acts like a Fast Pass and enables us to get on Autopia and other rides quickly. Unbeknownst to us, Bennett’s flu bug is staging a last stand and he loses it on the march from Disneyland to Disney California Adventure Park for World of Color. I look like a child abductor dragging a screaming kid all the way back to the hotel.

7 a.m., Nov. 15, Disneyland Hotel. Bennett pukes repeatedly and is unable to keep anything down, including water. Blake takes Avery to Disney California Adventure Park for Extra Magic Hour, a perk of staying at the hotel. I stay inside Cell Block C with a moaning boy.

4 p.m., Nov. 15, Urgent Care. Bennett receives two IVs of fluid for severe dehydration. All topped up and ready for the Matterhorn!

6 a.m., Nov. 16, Disneyland Hotel. More puking, followed by a visit to the Children’s Hospital of Orange County. Bennett has a miraculous recovery on the taxi ride and proceeds to drink an entire can of Gatorade upon arrival at the hospital  — as if he’s feeling great! — thus revealing to hospital staff that I’m one of those crazy Canadians who runs to the emergency room every time my child has a runny nose. They send us back to Disneyland and charge my credit card $5,000 for the Gatorade.

2:30 p.m., Nov. 16, Trader Sam’s Enchanted Tiki Bar. I park myself at the bar and order a margarita. It tastes heavenly — like tequila with a splash of lime. I feel like a Zombie, but not the kind you drink (also on the menu). Blake brings Bennett down from the cell room and orders a Shipwreck on the Rocks, which at that moment describes our holiday. I ask for a to-go cup for my tequila.

I love how squeaky-clean Disneyland has a tiki bar where parents can get blotto.

I love how squeaky-clean Disney has a tiki bar where parents can get blotto.

4 – 7 p.m., Nov. 16, Disneyland. We tear ourselves away from Trader Sam’s and finally return to the park as a family of four, knocking off Dumbo the Flying Elephant, Casey Jr. Circus Train, Gadget’s Go Coaster, Splash Mountain and The Many Adventures of Winnie the Pooh. Bennett is actually smiling, and I realize he much prefers straight-forward outside rides like Dumbo to the “trippy” character-driven rides such as Splash Mountain, where it almost seems like you’re “inside” a TV show or movie (I think Bennett has a hard time separating fantasy from reality on those rides and it freaks him out). Meanwhile, Avery loves all the thrill rides, including California Screamin’ and Radiator Springs Racers at Disney California; this disparity poses another challenge to experiencing the park as a family.

I love my boy's big smile on this ride. It's his second favourite after Autopia.

I love my boy’s big smile on this ride. It’s his second favourite after Autopia.

11 a.m., Nov. 17, Disneyland Hotel. Bennett is back to his teasing self as we board the Disneyland Express back to the airport.

You know the kids feel great when they start fighting again.

You know the kids feel great when they start fighting again.

It would be tempting to label our Disneyland trip a bust, but that wouldn’t be fair. The parks are fantastic and the staff friendly and helpful — for example, I showed up at Goofy’s Kitchen on Saturday morning looking for eggs (Bennett’s first food request in three days); when I explained my son has autism and that he’d been sick, the restaurant manager packed him up a meal-to-go at no charge. Indeed, the Disney complex runs as a customer-driven, well-oiled machine. If you take advantage of perks like Extra Magic Hour and use Fast Passes on popular rides, you’ll have a great time. I truly think Bennett would have enjoyed a lot more of both parks if he hadn’t been sick — and if his first ride had been Autopia instead of the Matterhorn. #WhatWasIThinking?

Who knew it’s called Chi-Town?

The great thing about visiting a city for the first time is that everything is new. Every street leads to place you’ve never been before, whether it’s a famous monument, a hip restaurant or an urban beach. Such was our 48 hours in Chicago, an American metropolis that’s been on our “U.S. cities to visit” list for years.

Chicago surprised and delighted in so many ways, but the highlight for me was its built environment.

Chicago surprised and delighted in so many ways, but the highlight for me was its built environment. Here’s the view from the 96th floor of the John Hancock building.

You also learn little tidbits about your destination that make it real, like the fact that Chicago’s nickname is Chi-Town (who knew?), or that Bears fans wear the coolest scarfs to home games, or that Chicago suburb Oak Park boasts both Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and studio and Ernest Hemingway’s childhood home.

Other than expecting wind and deep dish pizza I didn’t really know what Chicago was all about until we tromped out of the ‘L’ at the Loop and found Hotel Monaco, our home for two days. It was late and all the buildings along Chicago River were lit up including the gothic-topped Tribune Tower and its contemporary neighbour the Trump Tower Chicago. I’m a sometimes-arichtecture fan and this was a wow moment, to be followed by many more over the next two days. Here are our Chi-Town highlights.

1. All the tall buildings

It’s staggering to look up on holiday and realize that probably half of the skyscrapers are taller than your city’s tallest building. And yet that happened around every corner in Chicago, where the Willis Tower, John Hancock building and Trump Tower all top 90 stories. (That’s almost twice as high as the Bow, in case you were wondering.) But it’s not just the size that’s so impressive as the design. No boring modernist rectangles, these. I was particularly taken with the Tribune Tower, an art deco beauty with a gothic top that includes flying buttresses. A close second was the Carbide and Carbon building, an art deco masterpiece that looks like a stylized bottle of champagne.

I love art deco and I also love that the Chicago Tribune resides in a statement building.

Maybe it’s just me, but the Tribune Tower has Gotham City written all over it.

2. Cloud Gate

We spent a long time enchanted by Cloud Gate, an elliptical “bean” sculpture by artist Anish Kapoor that captures your attention as you walk around it and see the city (and yourself below it) reflected at various angles on its mirror-like surface.

Blake pauses in front of Cloud Gate in Millennium Park, alongside his Divvy Bike.

Blake pauses in front of Cloud Gate in Millennium Park, alongside his Divvy Bike.

3. DIVY bikes

It seems you’re not truly a modern city these days unless you have a bike sharing system. Chicago’s Divvy Bikes, with 4,000 bicycles located at 400 stations across the city, make it easy to explore this large, flat metropolis. We hopped on at Oak Beach and rode south past Navy Pier to Millennium Park before heading over to Frontera Grill for lunch.

4. Oh yeah, and there’s a beach

Yes, Chicago has beaches. While they certainly wouldn’t be tempting on a January day, we saw people playing beach volleyball and even swimming in Lake Michigan on a balmy October Saturday. Right downtown! There are even waves.

A lovely beach in downtown Chicago.

A lovely beach in downtown Chicago.

5. The food & drinks

While I wouldn’t go so far as to say I’m a fan of Chicago deep dish (I prefer the artisan thin-crust pies that Calgary’s Una and Without Papers make), I was impressed with the diversity and creativity of Chi-Town’s food and cocktails. I had a delicious mole enchilada and a whiskey barrel-aged mezcal negroni at Frontera Grill, and we sipped a ginny number called The Lake Effect and nibbled on a plate of duck tongues, followed by delicious grilled baby octopus at Girl and the Goat.

Admittedly, 48 hours was barely enough time to experience all that Chicago has to offer, but our weekend jaunt left me wanting more. I’ll be back to Chi-Town!