Category Archives: Travel

Palm Springs’ remarkable makeover

It’s hard to know what to expect from a destination when you’ve visited only once before, for a shopping day trip, when you were 15. My memories of Palm Springs were, like the opening sequence of Miami Vice, a montage of palm trees, pastels, highways and (unlike in Florida) desert scrub.

At least one memory of Palm Springs reflects its new reality: palm trees!

At least one memory of Palm Springs reflects its new reality: palm trees!

I had heard the Southern California city, just a two-hour drive east of Los Angeles, had undergone a transformation in the past decade, thanks in large part to the annual Coachella music festival and the hip, young demographic associated with it.

Canadian transplant Jaime Kowal, who owns several businesses in the trendy Uptown Design District, relocated to Palm Springs from Vancouver because she saw its potential. Yes, it still reels in what the town jokingly calls “gays and greys” (referring to the LGBT visitors and golf-loving retirees that flock there), but Palm Springs also appeals to younger couples and even families — I have friends who have taken the kids and had a blast.

My husband Blake and I visited on a working holiday — I’m writing some Palm Springs stories for WestJet Magazine — and, as if to prove its new versatility, the city delivered five holidays in one.

The Spa Holiday

If you want a massage, facial, wrap, pedicure, mud bath — or even a spiritual healing session with a shaman — Palm Springs is your place. I spent a morning at Two Bunch Palms in Desert Hot Springs stewing naked in a warm bath of mud and wondering what had possessed me to submerge my birthday suit in a mixture of peat and mineral-rich clay. After a nice long shower and anti-inflammatory arnica wrap, I relaxed in the hot springs Grotto and contemplated joining a yoga class or meditation session.

Soaking in a mud bath at Two Bunch Palms.

Soaking in a mud bath at Two Bunch Palms.

The Active Holiday

While I was spa-ing, Blake was pedalling over 30 kilometres on a mountain bike ride in Palm Desert. The following day, we drove the hour to Joshua Tree National Park and explored a piece of this famous natural landscape. We vowed to return and camp there among its awesome rocks with the kids.

Acres of rocks, cacti and Joshua trees all to myself at Joshua Tree National Park.

Acres of rocks, cacti and Joshua trees all to myself at Joshua Tree National Park.

The Drink-Beer-in-the-Pool Holiday

You don’t have to fly to an all-inclusive resort in Mexico to do this. Blake and I managed to imbibe a selection of American microbrews from the comfort of our weekend vacation house, The Junipero. It’s not a hotel, per se; it’s more like a dedicated short-term vacation rental property complete with all the amenities including a BBQ, fridge, coffee, comfy bed and, most importantly, swimming pool. You can book the main house, or one of three bungalows.

Every afternoon we hit the pool at The Junipero Palm Springs. With beer.

Every afternoon we hit the pool at The Junipero Palm Springs. With beer.

The Foodie Holiday

I think I gained five pounds while eating my way from south Palm Springs north to the Uptown Design District. We hit institutions such as King’s Highway Diner at the Ace Hotel, Tropicale and Cheeky’s, and we tried some new spots like Eight4Nine.

The ahi poke at Eight4Nine beats the Hawaiian deli equivalent any day! The shrimp crackers were a nice touch, too.

The ahi poke at Eight4Nine beats the Hawaiian deli equivalent any day! The shrimp crackers were a nice touch.

The Shopping Holiday

I’m no longer 15, so I didn’t hit the mall for clothes. Instead, I browsed the vintage, mid-century modern and modern boutiques and galleries that make up the revitalized Uptown and ogled eye candy from retro flower lapel pins and cheesy pink flamingo lawn ornaments to funky wall clocks and bronze ashtrays.

I loved the cool wall art in Just Modern.

I loved the cool wall art in Just Modern.

Top 5 favourite things I’d forgotten I love about Sunshine Village

Exiting the Great Divide chair at Sunshine Village on a bluebird day I turned right and there it was: Mt. Assiniboine, also known as Canada’s Matterhorn. It towers above the surrounding mountains in a stunning show of pointy peakiness and skiers are lucky to see it — most days Sunshine is snowed in and the peaks that surround the ski resort on all sides remain hidden. I stopped and admired the view, and repeated that act of grateful acknowledgment at the top of every run.

Mt. Assiniboine, the highest mountain in Banff National Park, towers over the surrounding mountains.

Mt. Assiniboine, the highest mountain in Banff National Park, towers over the surrounding peaks.

It had been a couple years since I last skied at Sunshine (if skiing one run in a snowstorm while interviewing Olympian Jan Hudec counts), and I had forgotten about the ski area’s beautiful scenery. Skiers tend to focus on snow conditions — not necessarily views — so I had filed the mental postcards of Sunshine somewhere far back in my long-term memory, along with powdery descents down Delirium Dive and knee-bilitating runs down the bumps on Goat’s Eye Mountain.

But a trip there last weekend to check out the resort’s latest improvements, including Canada’s first heated chairlift, brought all those memories bubbling to the surface. Here are my Top 5 favourite things I’d forgotten I love about Sunshine:

Did I mention the views?

In case you didn’t take the above photo of Mt. Assiniboine seriously, there are similar Alps-like mountains in every direction. It’s like skiing inside a spectacular peaks snow globe.

Every run is an opportunity for a mountain selfie. Goat's Eye Mountain and Delirium Dive are behind me -- yes you can ski that!

Every run is an opportunity for a mountain selfie. Goat’s Eye Mountain and Delirium Dive are behind me — yes you can ski that!

Best people movers in the Rockies!

New this season is the Teepee Town Luxury Express Quad. Yes, they actually call it that. Each chair has a heated seat that warms your tush and also an orange bubble guard that can be pulled down to protect skiers from the wind. It’s like goggles for the chairlift. The whole experience is rather spa-like, but leaves a girl craving a glass of cucumber water to rehydrate.

I love this new chair. It's better than a warming hut because it simultaneously transports you = no wasting a run!

I love this new chair. It’s better than a warming hut because it simultaneously transports you = no wasting a run!

Prior to this new chair Sunshine rocked it in the lift department. It also has an awesome rainbow gondola and a moving walkway that helps skiers board the Wawa Quad. The remaining seven chairlifts are also quads (and six of them are high-speed) so you can basically ski the equivalent of a full day in three hours.

Terrain

There are still steeps and bumps, but these days I prefer to hurtle down the wide-open runs off the Great Divide. It hadn’t snowed in a while when I was there, but Sunshine’s altitude (ranging from 6,000 to about 8,500 feet)  helps the snow stay winter-like up high.

Which way should I point my skis?

Which way should I point my skis?

Haute cuisine at altitude

Forget about refuelling with burgers and fries. The Eagle’s Nest Canadian Bistro has delicious dishes such as pesto panko-crusted rack of lamb and cedar plank salmon. I loved my west coast black cod with olive tapenade.

West coast black cod with olive tapenade and roasted tomatoes at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge.

West coast black cod with olive tapenade and roasted tomatoes at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge.

Ski-in/Ski-out

Yes, please. I love the convenience of skiing to my room at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge, and savouring mountain views from the balcony. The renovated rooms are comfortable (the lodge is trying to attain 5-star status) and the giant hot tub is the best for apres ski.

Room with a view at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge.

Room with a view at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge.

I’ll be back Sunshine (and maybe next time I’ll bring the kids)!

Illuminasia at the Calgary Zoo

You can see the glow as you cross the zoo bridge from Inglewood to St. Patrick’s Island. Bright, multi-coloured lanterns in the shape of animals and plants illuminate the night inside the Calgary Zoo. They beckon to moms like me — whose kids love the zoo — to come and see the Illuminasia Lantern & Garden Festival, running through Nov. 1, 2015.

Illuminasia at the Calgary Zoo features 366 plant- and animal-shaped lanterns from China.

Illuminasia features 366 plant- and animal-shaped lanterns from China.

We’ve been big fans of Zoolights for years, so I was eager to see how this shoulder-season event — designed to attract visitors during a non-peak time of year — stacked up. As luck would have it, I was invited to check it out by the Travel Media Association of Canada (I’m a member) for a great price, but it was an adult media mixer so I left the kids at home.

Illuminasia features 366 lanterns (183 plants and 183 animals) of varying sizes built in China and then shipped 12,000 km to Calgary. The lanterns are made of a silk-rayon fabric that’s been stretched over a frame, with details such as stripes (tigers) or facial expressions (check out the zebras!) airbrushed or hand-painted on.

Some of the Illuminasia lanterns, like this lion, almost look like they're made of glass. Very cool.

Some of the Calgary Zoo’s Illuminasia lanterns, like this lion, almost look like they’re made of glass. Very cool.

We walked past delicate cheetahs, a fierce roaring lion, hunting velociraptors, a giant moose and a flock of flamingos, among many others — all animals that are represented at the Calgary Zoo (the zoo obviously doesn’t have real dinosaurs but rather features animatronic giant reptiles in its Dinosaurs Alive exhibit). A favourite are the panda lanterns, likely because the zoo is gearing up to welcome real giant pandas in 2018.

The pandas are the most popular lanterns at the Calgary Zoo's Illuminasia festival.

The pandas are the most popular lanterns at the Calgary Zoo’s Illuminasia festival.

In addition to the lantern walk, Illuminasia features programming tied in to themes that celebrate different countries in Asia. Experience India, for example, runs through Oct. 25 and offers a chance to see a performance by Bollywood-style dancers (free), or the opportunity to get a henna tattoo or make a block art print ($10).

Colourful elephants add flair to Illuminasia at the Calgary Zoo.

Colourful elephants add flair to Illuminasia at the Calgary Zoo.

I’m all for the zoo enriching its programming and thinking of creative ways to broaden the zoo experience (now that Avery and Bennett are older, there are only so many times a year we want to go see all of the usual animal suspects). I only wish the zoo would make these extra offerings more accessible.

For a family of four to go to Illuminasia it costs $84 (note: it’s $76 for regular zoo admission for two adults and two kids), plus $5 parking. And it’s not like you can pull a twofer take in the lanterns and the real animals at the same time, since the lanterns turn on at 7 p.m. but by then it’s too dark to see the animals and/or the animal buildings are closed. There is a discount on Illuminasia tickets offered for Engage or Inspire level zoo members (20 or 25 percent, respectively, plus free parking), but, for comparison’s sake, the member discount price still works out to be more than regular Stampede admission (which is $54 for a family of four). It seems like a lot of money to look at lit-up animals, and I can’t help but think that by lowering prices or offering more member incentives, events like this would attract a lot more people and ultimately earn the zoo more money.

I liked Illuminasia, but the cost might leave you feeling cheetah-ed.

I liked Illuminasia, but the cost might leave you feeling cheetah-ed.

So the question is, will I bring Avery and Bennett to Illuminasia before it wraps up for the season on Nov. 1? I really liked it, but for $84 for our family, I’d have to say no (we are no longer zoo members now that the children are older). Yes, we pay for Zoolights every year, but for us that’s become a Christmas Eve tradition so we don’t mind the cost. The zoo has plans to make Illuminasia an annual event, so perhaps it too will eventually become a tradition. Time will tell.