Category Archives: Travel

Victoria with kids

It’s small, walkable, picturesque and totally charming. And with each visit I wonder why we don’t visit Victoria, B.C. more often.

Victoria's Inner Harbour

We could’ve spent the day watching float planes land and ferries arrive in Victoria’s Inner Harbour, from the comfort of our room at the Delta Ocean Pointe Resort.

I last visited Victoria in 2011 for the Art of the Cocktail festival and then wrote about the city’s burgeoning spirits scene for the Calgary Herald. Fast forward five years and cocktails are pretty much off the table during a visit with my husband and children, aged 11 and eight. Instead of learning to love gin, our goal is to find Victoria’s wild heart and then write about it for Toque and Canoe. But on the trail of the untamed we also toured through the city’s famous family-friendly stops. If you’re here with kids, don’t miss…

1. Children’s Farm in Beacon Hill Park

There are alpacas, bunnies and birds, but the biggest hit at the Beacon Hill Children’s Farm is the goat enclosure, where billies, nannies and kids approach visitors and demand pets, even going so far as to jump onto laps or even backs. You’ll actually be able to say that a Billy Goat Gruff has your back, and mean it.

This Billy Goat Gruff has definitely got Avery's back at the Beacon Hill Children's Farm in Victoria, BC.

This Little Billy Goat Gruff has definitely got Avery’s back at the Beacon Hill Children’s Farm in Victoria, B.C.

2. The harbour seals at Fisherman’s Wharf

The fish and chips from Barb’s is fantastic, but the cheeky harbour seals swimming off the dock at Fisherman’s Wharf and angling for raw fish bits by splashing with their flippers, steal the show. When your kid asks you if she can feed the seals, don’t hesitate. Pay the $5 — it’s worth every loonie!

This adorable and very well fed harbour seal appreciated his 10th lunch of the day!

This adorable and well fed harbour seal appreciated his 10th lunch of the day.

3. Butchart Gardens

Our kids were dazzled by the sheer number of blooms at Butchart Gardens, from azaleas to zinnias. This renowned attraction got its start as a private Eden planted by Jennie Butchart to camouflage her husband’s exhausted (and unsightly) limestone quarry. She got a bit carried away and the garden grew and grew and grew. We marvelled at the Sunken Garden, site of the old quarry, now a riot of colours, and got our zen on in the tranquil Japanese Garden.

Bridges, pagodas and tranquil ponds make the Japanese Garden at Butchart Gardens a calming oasis (yes, even with kids).

Bridges, pagodas and tranquil ponds make the Japanese Garden at Butchart Gardens a calming oasis (yes, even with kids).

4. A whale of a time

You can’t visit Victoria without going out on the water to look for orcas, a.k.a. “killer whales.” We last saw these magnificent creatures performing a cheesy show at SeaWorld in San Diego two years ago, so it felt better and way more natural to see them in their ocean environment on a Prince of Whales tour. We saw a transient pod of six orcas and learned they are an example of “cultural driven evolution,” a group that chose to eat seals over fish. As a result of their mammal meal preference, the group no longer breeds with the resident orcas, which eat salmon.

See that tiny speck in the water behind Avery? That's a killer whale!

See that tiny speck in the water behind Avery? That’s a killer whale!

5. The Victoria Bug Zoo

Never balk at an opportunity to hold a tarantula! Tell that to my husband, who cradled a hairy specimen at The Victoria Bug Zoo. Avery was a bit put out they don’t let kids have a turn, but she consoled herself by touching a millipede.

Now I know who to call when I see a spider on the wall...

Now I know who to call when I see a spider on the wall…

The goods: You can do all of the above through the fall, and if you happen to visit Victoria in October, there are oodles of spooky events and activities taking place, from ghostly walks to a Halloween-themed tea for kids at the Fairmont Empress. Plus the Art of the Cocktail festival takes place Oct. 22-23.

Stay: The Delta Ocean Pointe Resort made us feel welcome with kids’ play packs at check-in (complete with travel games, a slinky and a puzzle cube), the best view a kid could hope for, and a great location just a short walk from Chinatown or a quick water taxi ride away from the Inner Harbour action.

 

Paradise in Parksville/Qualicum Beach

During low tide in Parksville Bay, on the east side of Vancouver Island, the beach stretches toward the horizon seemingly forever. Even better, when the tide’s on its way out, you can wade out into the shallow water quite a distance and never get your shorts wet. For our family, these conditions are just about perfect. Add in temps in the high 20s and it’s no wonder we packed our beach bag and hit the sand immediately after checking in to The Beach Club Resort.

There's sand for miles in Parksville during low tide.

There’s sand for miles in Parksville during low tide. The view from our room at The Beach Club Resort.

Bennett was in heaven swimming from puddle to shallow puddle, and we never worried he’d get in over his head (literally). Avery turned her attention to all the critters getting left behind as the water drained toward the Salish Sea, including sand dollars, clams and tiny shore crabs that tried to hide unsuccessfully under beach rocks. Blake and I delighted in the kids’ happiness and tossed around a Frisbee. Paradise, found.

Bennett in his happy place: a shallow pool of warm sea water.

Bennett in his happy place: a shallow pool of warm sea water.

Three tiny shore crabs at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park.

Three tiny shore crabs at nearby Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park.

I’d been hearing for years that Parksville and neighbouring Qualicum Beach, a quick 30-minute drive north of the Nanaimo ferry terminal, was a perfect spot for families — warm calm water, fantastic tide pools and a ton of other things for kids to do beyond the beach. We’d never been to Vancouver Island with the kids and figured this would be the perfect initiation.

After a lazy beach afternoon and a spectacular sunset, Avery and I were up at first light for a Salish Sea Tidepool Tour with Pacific Rainforest Adventure Tours. My little naturalist was in her element searching for critters in rocky pools of water and then picking up everything — even the sea slugs!

Avery holds a purple ochre sea star that seems to be eating another shelled creature.

Our guide holds a purple ochre sea star. They were everywhere!

A neon green sea anemone.

A neon green sea anemone.

I was pretty amazed by all the life in the tide pools. We saw so many sea stars, shore and kelp crabs, and sea anemones that we lost count. We also spotted some unusual creatures, including a sea cucumber and the aforementioned sea slug. It was definitely worth waking up early!

I think what made Parksville special — beyond its beach beauty — was just how excited the kids were to be outside and either in or near the water, swimming or exploring. As Avery nears the teen years and Bennett grows ever more interested in iPad games and gadgets, it’s pretty cool to see them still see the natural world with wonder. Too bad life isn’t a beach every day.

Avery is in her element looking for critters in a tide pool.

Avery is in her element looking for critters in a tide pool.

North Van vacay

From the top of Grouse Mountain you can see the sprawling green forest of Stanley Park, the skyscrapers and condo towers of downtown Vancouver and, in the distance, Vancouver Island. It’s a stunning panorama, and I had to think — how have we never been here before?

The view from the top of Peak Chairlift at Grouse Mountain.

The view from the top of Peak Chairlift at Grouse Mountain.

We have visited family in the community of Deep Cove, in North Vancouver, for years, but in the past we’ve always headed in to Vancouver proper to “play,” hitting attractions like the Vancouver Aquarium and Granville Island. This time, we stayed exclusively in North Van, with great results.

Not only are the city’s three big recreational mountains — Grouse Mountain, Cypress Provincial Park and Mt. Seymour Provincial Park — north of Vancouver Harbour, there are attractions like Capilano Suspension Bridge park and Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, as well as Deep Cove’s cute commercial district and beach, and Lonsdale Quay Market.

We hit three great family spots in two days during a recent visit.

Grouse Mountain

We started the day on the Super Skyride tram that whisks passengers up 2,800 feet in about six minutes (alternately you can hike up the mountain, a trek that’s called the Grouse Grind. The downside is you will offend passengers on the tram ride down with your ripe B.O musk). We lucked out and got up Grouse Mountain just in time for the World Famous Lumberjack Show, a hilarious “duelling chainsaws” skit between competing mountain men.

A lumberjack competitor saws a log with his long saw at Grouse Mountain.

A lumberjack competitor saws a log with his long saw at Grouse Mountain.

Afterward, we walked over to the bear enclosure to see orphaned grizzly bears Grinder and Coola cavorting in the sun and long grass. Avery, Bennett and I caught the Peak Chairlift to the top of the mountain for a great view of downtown Vancouver and also saw daredevil paragliders leaping off the mountain. Meanwhile, Blake took in part of the Birds in Motion demo.

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park

We wobbled and staggered our way 450 feet across the jiggly Capilano Suspension Bridge, originally built in 1889, which spans the Capilano River at a height of 230 feet. Then we headed straight for the Treetops Adventure, where you can walk between the tops of towering Douglas Fir trees on a series of seven suspension bridges. What’s cool is the  platforms around each tree have been built so the trees can keep growing. What’s more, you get a totally new perspective on the the coastal rainforest below.

Walking between the tops of Douglas Fir trees at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.

Walking between the tops of Douglas Fir trees at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.

We ended the afternoon on the Cliffwalk, which I imagine is like a via ferrata but without the need for a helmet, harness, ropes and carabiners. It’s basically a pathway that’s been built along the side of the granite cliff that drops down to the river. Parts of it jut out into space over the river thanks to a system of cantilevers.  It’s pretty cool.

The Cliffwalk at Capilano Bridge Suspension Park.

The Cliffwalk at Capilano Bridge Suspension Park.

Here’s a tip: to avoid crowds, visit this busy North Van attraction either right when it opens, or after 5 p.m. You’ll be able to really take in the grandeur of the forest and the span of the bridge with fewer people.

Deep Cove beach

This small arc of gravelly sand (wear water shoes!) is perfect for kids to swim or beach-comb while parents relax on a blanket or help said children look for shore crabs.

Picturesque Deep Cove beach is the nice place to spend a summer afternoon.

Picturesque Deep Cove beach is a nice place to spend a summer afternoon.

We staked out a spot equidistant between the water and the playground in the adjacent Panorama Park and spent the afternoon in beach mode. Later we walked the cute two-block stretch of boutiques and cafes along Gallant Ave. in the heart of Deep Cove and stopped in for ice cream. The best park of the day? Catching North Van’c smallest shore crab.

Avery caught this tiny shore crab at Deep Cove beach.

Avery caught this tiny shore crab at Deep Cove beach.