Category Archives: Potpourri

Heiko’s Trail in Fernie

Blake and I embarked on an epic day hike in Fernie last weekend: Heiko’s Trail. We’d been wanting to do this storied trek for several years, but the timing was never right — it’s a full-day commitment and the thought of just the two of us walking 20 kilometres through bear country gave me pause.

Skirting the imposing mass of Mount Bisaro by way of wildflower-studded alpine meadows. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Skirting the imposing mass of Mount Bisaro by way of wildflower-studded alpine meadows. Photo by Mike McPhee.

So when Toque and Canoe asked if my husband and I would be interested in hiking the trail with an ACMG-certified hiking guide, staying overnight at Island Lake Lodge (the trail’s terminus) post-hike, and then writing about it, how could I say no?

Look for my story on the T&C website later this summer. In the meantime, enjoy some Heiko’s Trail highlights, courtesy of Fernie resident and Island Lake Lodge marketing guru Mike McPhee, who joined our hike as photographer extraordinaire.

Blake walks across a wooden bridge spanning the 'Laughing Waters' waterfalls, barely one kilometre from the trailhead. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Blake walks across a wooden bridge spanning the ‘Laughing Waters’ waterfall, barely one kilometre from the Heiko’s Trail trailhead. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Posing inside Bisaro Cave, a vast cavern carved from crumbling limestone. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Posing inside Bisaro Cave, a vast cavern carved from crumbling limestone long Heiko’s Trail near Fernie, BC. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Crossing Bisaro Canon on one of two steel bridges helicoptered into the backcountry for this purpose. Photo by Mike McPhee.

Crossing Bisaro Canon along Heiko’s Trail on one of two steel bridges helicoptered into the Fernie backcountry for this purpose. Photo by Mike McPhee.

There isn't a bad view on Heiko's Trail. It was amazing to hike behind mountains visible from downtown Fernie. Mount Bisaro's 'Soda Wall' -- so named for the carbonates found in limestone -- looms behind us. Photo by Mike McPhee.

There isn’t a bad view on Heiko’s Trail. Mount Bisaro’s ‘Soda Wall’ — so named for the carbonates found in limestone — looms behind us. Photo by Mike McPhee.

After eight hours, 20 kilometres and 4,500 feet of total elevation gain, it was time for a cold drink on the Bear Lodge patio at Island Lake Lodge. Check out my cocktail of choice in my next post.

 

In the year since the flood…

I don’t really remember the days leading up to the Calgary flood. It was a blur of rainy days and meeting deadlines and end-of-the-year celebrations at my kids’ schools. I do, however, remember perfectly the view out the window.

The view from our window on June 20, 2013. Lots of green space and trees along the river bank.

The view from our window on June 20, 2013. Lots of green space and trees along the river bank.

There was a beautiful, bermed-up grass park sandwiched between our road and the bike path that used to run adjacent to the Bow River. The field was a place where Avery and Bennett ran around kicking balls and chasing butterflies, and where I threw sticks for Piper after walking Avery to school. When I close my eyes I can see it in unblemished detail, dandelions and all. When I open them all I see is a chain-link fence.

Our new view ever since June 24, 2013.

Our new view ever since June 24, 2013.

The fence has been erected since June 24, three days after the river eroded the park and a thin sliver of the street in the space of 60 hours between the night of June 20 and the morning of June 23. The fence is there to protect us from the ongoing bank and road rebuilding projects and, I suppose, to keep us from sleepwalking right out of the house and stumbling into the water.

But to me it has come to symbolize everything we lost in the flood: a park, a street, a public place for the kids to play, the “Piper walk” (the bike path where our family walked Piper as a puppy), peace of mind. Canada Post won’t deliver packages to our door, instead writing on the claim slip, “no road.” We haven’t been able to park in front of the house to unload groceries FOR A YEAR. Our alley, as the only access to the homes on our street, is most days frenetic (and occasionally impassable) with van deliveries, contractor’s trucks and residents coming and going. Visitors must park down the road on another block and walk. We still have a sidewalk at least, though bike commuters have turned it into a makeshift path and will even ring their bells at us to pass! Maybe it’s a little #firstworldproblems of me to complain about it (hey, at least we still have a house! And a newly renovated post-flood basement!), but I just want the fence down and the road rebuilt so we can have normalcy again. Or — at least — so we can get used to a new normal.

Crews have been working on and off since fall to fix the devastation wrought by the river. In October they reclaimed some of the lost land and reinforced the new, manmade bank with riprap.

Crews reclaimed new bank with dirt, gravel and riprap.

Crews reclaimed the bank with tonnes of dirt, gravel and riprap.

Watching crews pile on riprap from behind the fence.

Watching crews pile on riprap from behind the fence.

In winter they levelled the point bar on the north side of the river to the same grade as the water so that when the water rose this spring it could flow onto a lower plain (to compensate for narrowing the channel when they rebuilt the bank on our south side). They also built two gravel groynes on the cut bank (our side) to divert water away from the bank during heavy flow.

An seemingly endless parade of dump trucks hauled huge rocks from the point bar and trucked them over to the bird sanitary to be used as fill.

An seemingly endless parade of dump trucks hauled huge rocks from the point bar and trucked them over to the bird sanctuary to be used as fill.

Finally, this spring, they have planted trees and shrubs along our bank, and last week began work to reconstruct our street. Finally. I get that there are finite resources to rebuild all that was damaged around the city during last summer’s disaster, but isn’t having street access to homes a priority? And when crews decide to test the sewer line on your road and it ends up geysering urine-aroma water via the toilet all over your bathroom, you kind of just want it to end already.

A digger scrapes up the last of the asphalt in preparation for road resurfacing.

A digger scrapes up the last of the asphalt last week, in preparation for road resurfacing to begin as soon as the rain stops.

But I suppose I shouldn’t complain so much. Really, you get used to it. Until you close your eyes.

 

I wore Birkenstocks in Paris — quelle horreur!

The first time I got called out for what I was wearing in a newspaper photograph was in 2009 after I’d undergone a “mommy makeover” with a local stylist and then written about it for the Calgary Herald. The stylist had helped me ditch my Lululemon uniform in favour of something more put together — jeans, a blazer and boots. A picture of me sporting the new ensemble accompanied the story. A reader e-mailed me to defend the new-mom Lulu-pant look, itemizing the ways in which my outfit was impractical (can’t play with your kid on the floor, the necklace would get pulled off by little hands, etc.).

The second and most recent time I got called out was Tuesday this week, when a reader wrote a letter to the editor expressing her horror over the shoes I’m wearing in a picture accompanying a Paris travel story that ran in the Calgary Herald on the weekend. The story is about how travellers can still live it up in the City of Lights even though the bachanalian decade that put it on the international travel map (the 1920s) is long past. I write about Hemingway’s Paris and how, though the times and the people have changed, the buildings and the city’s soul remain the same. But, according to one rather catty reader, I should be ashamed of myself for wearing Birkenstocks in Paris. She writes:

“I was stunned to see Lisa Kadane sporting Birkenstock sandals during her swishy stay in the City of Lights.

As a frequent traveller to Paris, I can tell you that no self-respecting Parisian woman would be caught dead in them.”

Meow! Or, as they say in Paris, “Miaou!” Apparently, I just can’t get this fashion thing figured out — I’m always overdressing for playdates but underdressing for strolls along the Seine. I knew, knew knew I should’ve packed my Jimmy Choos. What was I thinking?!

Fortunately, I am not Parisian — I am American and Canadian, obvs (I wore Teva sandals and cut-off jean shorts during my first visit to Paris in 1993 — take that you fashion police Herald reader!) — so I have managed to maintain my self-respect through this epic faux pas.

In which I unwittingly wear sandals in Paris that might make Coco Chanel roll over in her grave.

Photo evidence: In which I unwittingly wear sandals in Paris that might make Coco Chanel roll over in her grave.

But there are some points I would like to make that address a larger issue.

1. The day I dressed in my beloved, super-comfy Birks was a sightseeing day. There was walking involved, and Paris is a big city. Our group set off from lunch at the Eiffel Tower to walk along the Seine toward the Pont des Invalides and across the river into a shopping district, a distance of several kilometres. About half way to our destination some in our group flagged a cab because their shoes were too tight or the heels too high or straps were rubbing. Their feet hurt. I do a lot of walking when I travel and there’s nothing worse than wearing uncomfortable shoes or getting a blister. So I brought my Birks. I can walk for miles in them and never have to call a taxi. I don’t think I need to defend myself here but it should be noted I did not wear the sandals out at night to upscale restaurants. Puh-leeze.

Photo evidence: A Birkenstock rube gets some fashion intervention for a swishy night out in the City of Lights.

Photo evidence: A Birkenstock rube goes urban for a swishy night out in the City of Lights.

2. Since when do you have to dress a certain way in this city or that city? “Oh, my God! You wore a beret in Calgary? Why didn’t you bring a cowboy hat?” Crazy, right? The letter-writer is, literally, “stunned” by my sandals. Her mean-spirited comments seem to imply that I’m somehow not qualified to write about swanky restos or five-star hotels in Paris based on my shoe choice. Let me tell you: You can live it up in Paris — or anywhere, really — in Birkenstocks. Hang out in Berkeley, Calif. on a Friday night and you’ll see what I mean.

3. In my story I reference the novel The Paris Wife. It’s a story written from the viewpoint of Hadley, Ernest Hemingway’s first wife, who spent the lean and hungry years with him in Paris. Interestingly, Hadley was no fashionista (at least, according to author Paula McLain), but she and Hem managed to live la vie Parisienne — hanging out at hip cafes and drinking copious amounts of absinthe and having loads of fun in a beautiful and cultured city —  regardless. She writes:

“I also didn’t care enough about clothes to do any thinking about what would suit me. I wore what was easiest and required the least maintenance, long wool skirts and shapeless sweaters and wool cloche hats. Ernest didn’t seem to mind. If anything, he thought highly costumed women were ridiculous.”

Hear, hear! Of course, Hadley was American. I’m sure any self-respecting Parisian woman from the 1920s wouldn’t have been caught dead in a long wool skirt and shapeless sweater. Whatever.

My three points bring me to this: does it matter what shoes I wore on that hot summer day in Paris? I think not. Women should dress in a way that makes them feel comfortable, both physically and mentally. Cities do not have dress codes, and the majority of citizens will not judge you based on your wardrobe. I think letters to the editor should take issue with or support the written content in a publication, not what the author of said content is wearing. Surely the letter writer, as a “frequent traveller to Paris,” could have found ways to add to my story in a positive way, by pointing out favourite cafes or sights or hotels or cocktail lounges that I overlooked. But I think the point of her letter was to try and make me feel bad about myself for my shoes, which is both laughable and sad. Why must some women try to bring others down in this way? Does she feel better about herself now for outing me and my Birks? I wish we could move past this kind of fashion war.

It should also be noted that I never noticed any French women giving me stink eye or snickering behind my back about my sandals while in Paris. I guess they are too classy for that, or here’s a thought —  maybe they just don’t care. Which is great, because the next time I’m in Paris I am so going to wear my new Croc wedges.